• DominusOfMegadeus@sh.itjust.works
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    3 months ago

    Pro Tip: Connect your TV to your Wi-Fi so the TV doesn’t bother you constantly, and shut off access outside your network at the router level.

  • DirkMcCallahan@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    I pity the poor fool who sets up their smart TV instead of just grabbing an HDMI cable and plugging in their computer.

    • toynbee@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      That is my preference, but my wife says she prefers only one step (turning on and using the TV) over multiple (turning on the TV, turning on the secondary system and using multiple controllers) so we go with the simpler setup per her request.

      I did put my TVs on a Wi-Fi network separate from my main one so, while they do show ads as much as my pihole allows, at least they’re theoretically only spying on each other.

      • asap@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        With HDMI-CEC you can achieve what your wife wants. I have one remote to turn on my Nvidia Shield (with Plex, Jellyfin, Netflix, etc), and that same remote also controls all TV functions.

    • cRazi_man@lemm.ee
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      3 months ago

      That is beyond the capabilities of normies.

      My wife would agree with this:

      Media PC

      And I’ve got Plex running on an always on NAS.

      • BakedCatboy@lemmy.ml
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        3 months ago

        Lmao that greentext was literally me before I finally set up arrstack. One of the best investments of my time, it has definitely paid off over many years of just having things automatically download.

          • BakedCatboy@lemmy.ml
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            3 months ago

            I mean yeah there’s a lot of stuff it does, but you can pick and choose what you want to use it for so it depends on what you would find useful - you don’t have to use the full automation. I started just by using it as a read-only way to see what movies I had and in what qualities and keep things organized. You can use it as a manual interface to do one-off downloads - basically just as an interface to search 5 torrent sites in 1 place where you are still picking exactly what you want it to download. You can use it only to rename files to a consistent format. So there are a lot of ways to use the various features of sonarr/radarr besides automatic downloads. You’re not forced to go all-in and out of the box it doesn’t start automatically downloading until you enable that.

              • BakedCatboy@lemmy.ml
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                3 months ago

                I’m glad to clear it up! It’s a super powerful tool, and I still occasionally skip the automation and just use it for manual searches since it reduces that process to a single click to search all configured torrent sites and a single click to download and have the rest automatically handled.

                Before when I was visiting friends and wanted to quickly add something to plex, I used to need remote access to my torrent client and separate remote access to my NAS filesystem to move/rename files when downloads finish which was a really manual process. Now all I need is the reverse-proxied sonarr/radarr UI since it handles moving/copying/renaming on download completion - and while the UI isn’t mobile-first, it’s very usable and feels less error-prone than moving/renaming files remotely using a file explorer app.

        • cRazi_man@lemm.ee
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          3 months ago

          My Arr’s are unreliable. The trackers they search keep becoming unavailable for some reason. Flaresolver doesn’t seem to work with my VPN setup. Sometimes the file it finds to download turns out to be 54GB for a 1080p movie and I can’t figure out what the hell is going on there either. I haven’t got the time to look into Usenet any time soon. If I try to deploy something and it doesn’t work 100% right off the bat then the “wife acceptance factor” drops to zero, so I’ve got to be damn certain before I start tinkering.

          This comes off the back of a device on my network causing router issues and making Plex unreliable for a couple of weeks. By the time I diagnosed and fixed the issue, the damage was done and wife acceptance factor was lost.

          • BakedCatboy@lemmy.ml
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            3 months ago

            Man that sucks. I must have gotten lucky or something with my setup. I also have trackers go unavailable all the time but I enabled 8 different ones and usually multiple will have the same torrent so it usually has no problem finding something even if 1 or 2 are down. I also don’t VPN tracker searches, just my BitTorrent client so flaresolverr seems to work fine for me (I only have it enabled for 2 of my trackers since most of the ones I use don’t seem to require it).

            If you end up trying it out again I would look into the quality settings and make sure you’re not using the remux quality profile (edit: apparently the default 1080p quality profile has the 1080 remux quality enabled so this might have been the problem). By default most of the quality profiles seem to limit at 100MB/min, so a 2 hr movie shouldn’t allow anything over like 12GB. Whenever I tweak quality or custom formats I refer to trash guides which has a lot of battle-tested rules you can copy. I have my main quality profile set to only download qualities between hdtv720 and br1080 (which is just below remux) with custom formats copied from trash guides set to prefer hevc with surround sound since I have 5.1.

            • cRazi_man@lemm.ee
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              3 months ago

              Thanks. Really helps to know where to start looking when I get time over the weekend.

              • TrenchcoatFullOfBats@belfry.rip
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                3 months ago

                You may also want to look into Usenet instead of torrents when you’re researching. Sonarr/Radarr/Readarr etc all work (in my opinion) better with Usenet.

                You’ll need to pay some, but the reliability is amazing, which is extremely helpful for the partner acceptance factor. I pay for two providers (newsdemon is primary and eweka is a backup) and two indexers (drunkenslug and nzbfinder), and everything has been rock solid reliable for years. Download speeds are also MUCH faster than torrents.

                Combine this setup with overseerr (or jellyseerr) so your partner can find their own things to download and you might be able to get them back on board.

                Plus, no flaresolverr required!

          • Wildly_Utilize@infosec.pub
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            3 months ago

            My gf loves stremio + torrentio + real debrid I set up for her

            It does go down occasionally and she is more techy and patient than most but give it a try if you havent.

            Its dead simple compared to what you’re doing now and good to have in your back pocket even if you want to maintain a local library. Having an issue? NP just open stremio and everyone’s happy

    • ChillPill@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      Ive been pretty happy so far with roku and blocking stuff with pihole, but every day I am more and more tempted to build a media pc…

      • MagicShel@programming.dev
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        3 months ago

        This is the way to go. I tried pihole using Samsung smart features, but if you block so the telemetry eventually your apps stop working and you can’t get them working again without doing a factory reset with blocking down. It’s prohibitively a pain in the ass, taking hours every time YouTube stops working.

        Never had any issues with Roku on pihole.

        • henfredemars@infosec.pub
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          3 months ago

          I believe one reason maybe that the software is so garbage it can’t handle not being able to submit all its logging information when otherwise the system thinks it’s online.

          • yggstyle@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            This is the case with Rokus as well. If you also redirect or block the hard coded DNS (Google) from bypassing your local DNS it starts to get extremely sluggish over time… presumably from background processes repeatedly resending requests out.

          • MagicShel@programming.dev
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            3 months ago

            That makes perfect sense and explains why you can’t fix it just by bypassing blocking temporarily and reinstalling the app.

        • yggstyle@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          Depends on your blocklist. It would freak out every so often on me when I was preventing it from bypassing my DNS with its hard coded ones until I added in a forced redirect instead.

      • yggstyle@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        Currently trying that for the same reasons you are tempted. Roku was passable and even a good choice years ago and it’s on a precipitous race to the bottom now.

        Problem for me currently is finding a non windows solution that is navigable from a controller or remote is … tough. Steam, emulation station, Kodi all have reasonable interfaces but there seems to be a gap in a unified launcher solution (as well as a decent ‘app’ for accessing YouTube.) I really don’t want to spin up a single VM for each activity when they all in theory should play nice together.

        • TrenchcoatFullOfBats@belfry.rip
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          3 months ago

          My solution to this problem is Jellyfin, fed by usenet-backed sonarr/radar and Tubesync to pull in YouTube channel subscriptions. Those are added to a Jellyfin library which is accessible right next to movies and tv shows.

          This is all through the Jellyfin app on a 2019 Nvidia Shield Pro. It’s a perfect couch-friendly setup. For just regular YouTube browsing, SmartTube can be installed on the Shield and on your phone. You can then cast to the SmartTube app on the Shield instead of to the YouTube app.

          • yggstyle@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            It seems we have similar backend setups 🏴‍☠️

            I’ll need to dig into an android solution a bit - smarttube seems pretty nice but has no Linux version unfortunately.

        • lemmy_get_my_coat@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          Exactly what I’ve been looking for too, and have come up wanting. I got excited recently about finding KDE Plasma Big Screen, but then it falls at the last hurdle on the app selection.

          • yggstyle@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            That gave me abandoned vibes when I looked into it. Maybe they just didn’t update anything on their site but I struggled to find any recent info or reviews on it. A shame honestly. I loved the idea.

    • Ugurcan@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      Point is, it’s near impossible to find a dumb tv with good specs. Like LG is producing no-smart version of LG C3 (best display ever so far), but it’s only sold to businesses.

  • A_Random_Idiot@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    I am so genuinely surprised that there isnt a bigger movement to hack TVs to replace the OS’s on them with non-invasive open software alternatives.

    Especially with shit like this.

    • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
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      3 months ago

      Because it’s not actually necessary; leave the TV isolated from the internet and use a set-top box (Apple TV, Shield, game console) as the media player.

      • COASTER1921@lemmy.ml
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        3 months ago

        Many of the cheap TVs with Roku built in require you to set up a Roku account before you can even use the HDMI inputs. After setting up your account you can disconnect it from the internet and use it as a normal TV, but I spent a while trying to get around this block. In the end I had to create a Roku account.

        • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
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          3 months ago

          That sounds awful; hopefully you were at least able to poison their DB with a fake name and a 10minutemail (or similar) account?

          • COASTER1921@lemmy.ml
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            3 months ago

            Basically, though I tend to use GMX email aliases for these sorts of useless signups. I don’t want some temporary email account to be all that’s needed to get control over my TV should I ever connect it to the internet again.

      • GenosseFlosse@feddit.org
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        3 months ago

        While I agree, I think this solution is some nonsense. I bought a “TV” and paid for all the hardware and software that went into it, but I essentially have to use it as a monitor with my own hardware to escape the enshittification.

        • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
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          3 months ago

          I also agree, but I view it more as ‘I bought a TV, and that’s all I want it to be’.

          I don’t care about the built in software features foisted on me because I wanted an OLED panel; simply because they are going to be abandoned within 1-2 years, are powered by some anaemic chipset that is already multiple generations behind what is already available in my TV stand; and will likely end up as an attack vector to my network some period down the road.

          The article mentions that TV manufacturers make ~$5 a quarter from selling your data. So those ‘features’ aren’t even free, they come at the expense of your personal information, privacy and likely security as a result.

          So to quote a famous Dave Chapelle skit: “fuck ‘em, that’s why!”

          • A_Random_Idiot@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            simply because they are going to be abandoned within 1-2 years, are powered by some anaemic chipset that is already multiple generations behind what is already available in my TV stand; and will likely end up as an attack vector to my network some period down the road.

            You do realize all of that would probably cease being a problem if people were able to hack their TVs to install custom OS’s.

            all the spyware bullshit would also be gone with a custom OS.

            Literally every one of your gripes would be addressed and fixed by being able to hack your TV

            • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
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              3 months ago

              Custom OS isn’t going to address the anaemic hardware, nor do I think relying on open-source custom ROMs for a niche item is the best way to ensure any hardware-level vulnerabilities are covered.

              If you already have an Internet-connected device hooked up to your TV (eg. PlayStation); there is no need to connect another, especially when it provides an overall worse experience.

              Shit, a basic HTPC is infinitely better - using a Linux-based distribution (which will have a lot more support vs. a niche TV ROM), and it’ll be supported well beyond what the hardware could handle.

              • A_Random_Idiot@lemmy.world
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                3 months ago

                Custom OS isn’t going to address the anaemic hardware, nor do I think relying on open-source custom ROMs for a niche item is the best way to ensure any hardware-level vulnerabilities are covered.

                Not only would it give “anemic” hardware new life, I can point at how its already been done at another in home device. Routers. DDWRT/OpenWRT/Tomato do exactly that for old, otherwise useless routers.

                Literally every single argument you make can make against it has been proven wrong, and has in other devices, be addressed with a custom OS/Firmware that is designed for purpose without all the bloat and other BS.

                You can adamantly say “Nuh uh!” all you want, but it doesnt change the facts.

                You can buy PS5s for every TV in your house if you want to, Not everyone has that money, luxury, or stubborn desire.

                • Aceticon@lemmy.world
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                  3 months ago

                  That anemic device uses hardware decoding in order to be able to decode the video data fast enough - it is literally unable to handle newer video encodings fast enough because it would have to do software decoding, which is were the anemic part totally kills it.

                  Routers on the other hand have been entirely done in software for ages (with at most hardware support for the encryption in things like SSL, which hasn’t changed in decades) and don’t have to reliably process 4k of data within 20 ms (for 50Hz) time frames.

                  Your example is very much an apples and oranges comparison.

                • xthexder@l.sw0.com
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                  3 months ago

                  Good luck implementing all the display color calibration, pixel refresher, anti-burn in features, etc… on these new TV panels. Personally I’d rather keep my warranty and just use a separate device to run the apps.

        • Aceticon@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          The best solution os actually to keep the decoder smarts separate from the actual displaying of image because those two things have different life-cycles and different costs.

          A decent TV screen will last you decades and work fine at doing what it does, with the only pressures to upgrade being video connectors - which change maybe once every 2 decades and usually you can use adaptors to give them another 2 decades or so of life - higher resolutions - which make no difference unless you have a very large screen, something which requires a large living room to view at the optimal distance and in which case what really drove you to replace it was not obsolescence - and screen tech advances -, which is another of those “every couple of decades it changes but the old ones are generally still fine” kind of thing.

          Media Playing, on the other hand, has its life-cycle linked to video encoding and compression which change every 5 years or so and either you have a seriously overpowered generic CPU there (which smart TVs do not) or you have hardware decoding, and in the latter case new video encodings require new hardware with support for them.

          So your TV with built-in decoding - i.e. “smart” TV - will need to be replaced more frequently driven by the need to support new digital formats, even though the part that costs the most by far - the screen - is still perfectly good. On the other hand if your media player functionality is separate, all you have to replace with some frequency is the much cheaper media box whilst only replacing the much more expensive screen side once in a blue moon.

          Smart TVs are great for manufacturers because they force people to replace the TV much more often hence they sell 2 or 3 times more TVs, but they’re in the mid and long term a really bad option for actual buyers who needlessly spend, much more on TVs, not to mention Ecologically with all those perfectly good screens ending up in landfills because the $20 worth of “smarts” tied to a $1000 screen is not capable of handling new video encoding formats.

        • jimmycrackcrack@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          Kind of, I haven’t had to buy a new tv to replace my dumb tv from 2014 but my understanding is that these awful smart TVs are at least cheaper because they’re subsidised by all the ads. If that’s the case, at least you didn’t actually fully pay for the hardware and can hopefully afford to put your own on there without being out of pocket by too extreme an amount.

          • xthexder@l.sw0.com
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            3 months ago

            That’s not really true because even the high end top of the line Samsung QD-OLED TVs have ads on the home screen if you connect Internet. If you want the latest display technology, your only options are Smart TV with ads, or spending 10x the price for a commercial display that nobody will actually sell you.

  • Thorny_Insight@lemm.ee
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    3 months ago

    My 10 year old TV which I watch 10 year old TV-series via HDMI from? I don’t think so.

    Tomorrow there’s going to be article about how my car spies on me as if that’s not 15 years old too. Or something about my office job that I don’t have.

    I’m becoming irrelevant. Not the target audience for anything.

    • grue@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      That has also been my strategy (both for TVs and cars), but that doesn’t mean it’s reasonable to pretend that it’s a solution for the general public or that consumer-protection regulation isn’t both abundantly warranted and sorely needed.

    • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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      3 months ago

      It tooke about 6 months to find my truck that didn’t have the connectivity link it. I think everything after 2022 on these you’re pretty much screwed, but it was an adventure to say the least.

  • Unlocalhost@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    Start buying commercial displays. Cost more but will be about as close to a dumb tv. You will have to provide your own smart device for apps …

    • HonorableScythe@lemm.ee
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      3 months ago

      This is what I did. Works fine for my needs. My older relatives hate it but they rarely come over.

    • GenosseFlosse@feddit.org
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      3 months ago

      Commercial displays are not tvs. Quite often the refresh rate is terrible and you cannot watch action movies on it, because it was designed to show static billboard ads.

      • xthexder@l.sw0.com
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        3 months ago

        Not to mention if you want an OLED display, any sort of commercial variant of that will be $10000+ and marketed to Hollywood producers and other creative industries that care about color accuracy.

      • Plopp@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        Some TVs listen for open networks and use those, so if there is one near you your TV could sneak out either way.

        • Avatar_of_Self@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          If it doesn’t have the passphrase for wifi, how is it going to connect? I rarely see unsecured wifis around neighborhoods anymore. For copper/fiber, you’re not going to hook it up to keep it disocnnected.

          • Plopp@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            If it doesn’t have the passphrase for wifi

            Open networks have no passphrase. Otherwise they wouldn’t be open. And yes they’re less common but it doesn’t mean you’re neighbor can’t set one up at any given time.

          • ultramaven@sh.itjust.works
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            3 months ago

            It’s not that simple.

            Here’s an example: Amazon could outfit all of their delivery vehicles with open wifi networks. Every Alexa device calls home when a truck drives by.

            Here’s another: you may have a guest wifi, or your neighbor, or their neighbor. All it needs is one.

            Yeah of course there are solutions to faraday cage it away from the world. But all they need is one connection. You have to stop it forever.

            • Avatar_of_Self@lemmy.world
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              3 months ago

              Guest wifi does not mean it is unsecure, it is simply just another logical network. Sure amazon could equip their trucks with wifi I suppose and maybe some TVs would have good connection to update fast enough while a truck is there without a lot of tcp retransmits due to lack of efficient lack of penetration but that’s not going effect all brands and surely it isn’t something that is currently happening in a large effect.

              You could talk about hypotheticals in the future sure but they aren’t going to scan for these magical “network ports” that are just hanging around the ether. It needs to have a connection and one that is reasonable in quality and time.

  • Sabata@ani.social
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    3 months ago

    I revived the old LCD my grandparents were throwing out because it had good specs and no built in ads. Tossed in a new capacitor and it was good to go, otherwise I would just not own a TV.

  • HolidayGreed@sh.itjust.works
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    3 months ago

    My HiSense Vidaa OS TV shows ads for newer TV’s from their online store.

    Is an Apple TV box a good platform choice to avoid this?

    • MrSpArkle@lemmy.ca
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      3 months ago

      If you have other Apple devices the Apple TV is the best option.

      Plex makes an app for it, and infuse makes a fantastic media server client.

      Also enables all kinds of useful home automation integration, and FaceTime via your television(this is a game changer).

    • Hazzia@infosec.pub
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      3 months ago

      I’d probably opt for an external streaming box and simply use the TV as a monitor instead of the whole system (as it was originally)

      • HolidayGreed@sh.itjust.works
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        3 months ago

        That’s what I’m planning to do and curious if Apple TV box is a good option. Fire stick is riddled with ads. Not sure about Roku and Apple TV.

        • spaghettiwestern@sh.itjust.works
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          3 months ago

          Roku is chocked full of ads too, and regularly sets the default for the “Select” button to open those ad sites or apps. Roku used to be great. It has now been completely enshittified.

          • Semi-Hemi-Lemmygod@lemmy.world
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            3 months ago

            I mean, it could be worse. It could not work at all when put behind a pihole. I keep all my Roku devices in their own group and haven’t seen ads on them

        • BlameTheAntifa@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          No matter how you feel about Apple in general, Apple TV boxes are really the only way to go these days. Everything else is designed to aggressive sell to you whether you like it or not.

          It’s either that or use something like a Raspberry Pi and settle for websites, which also have a habit of streaming you lower-quality content.

  • kamen@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    Since at one point in the near future I’ll be shopping for a TV, is there such a thing as a good as a good quality panel TV that is dumb? I intend to hook it up to a PC or a set top box. Alternatively, is there a smart TV that can be easily bootloader unlocked and rooted without consequences (similarly to how a Pixel phone can)? I realise this is even more niche than unlocking/rooting a phone, but still, someone might have ideas.

    • crossover@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      My LG OLED TV can be configured to load directly into a HDMI input. I keep it disconnected from wifi at all times. I never see the smartTV OS. It’s probably the best option because OLED panels are the best current display technology.

      I use an AppleTV as an external media box for all my needs. But the same would apply for an Android box or HTPC setup etc.

    • ColonelPanic@lemm.ee
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      3 months ago

      Get a non-consumer TV if you can. They’re more expensive but are actually but to last, have way more features and you can swap in whatever compute board you want so you’re not stuck with an underpowered Android TV board.

      • a baby duck@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        I’m very interested in this. Any suggestions as far as specific models to look at, or where to source one without needing a fancy business vendor connection? Maybe a trustworthy review site to compare some options?

        • ColonelPanic@lemm.ee
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          3 months ago

          I’ve not looked into it much other than seeing it in this video by Jeff Geerling and making a mental note for next time I’m in the market for a TV but it may be of interest to you.

          I’m sorry I can’t provide more details than that, but it’s basically a digital signage TV designed to run 24/7 for years, and as such is actually built without the absolute bargain basement parts that go into consumer units.

    • SoleInvictus@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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      3 months ago

      I just bought a smart TV, updated the software, and disconnected it from the Internet, only allowing it access to our local Plex server. No ads and no stupid suggestions. It’s great.

    • Kayday@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      It was maybe 7 years ago now, but I bought a dumb Sceptre TV and it still works great. Was only $300 at the time.

      • EchoCranium@lemmy.zip
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        3 months ago

        Scepter televisions are a great option, no “smart” features at all. Bought two of them about 6 years ago and no issues.

  • Aceticon@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    I replaced the TV Box from my ISP as well as the Media Player I already had for local media with a cheap mini-PC running Lubuntu and Kodi and have seen only a handful of adverts on my TV in the last couple of months (which I might see only when I’m watching Live-TV).

    (PS: Mind you, there is no way to avoid Product Placement in Movies and TV Series, so I have still probably seen quite a lot of “covert” advertising).

    The whole thing is now under my control and hence I don’t have to endure that crap.

    Granted, I’ve been a Techie for decades and have for a long time been very aware of how software with Internet access is an agent of the software maker serving their objectives, not of yours serving your interests and how anything you paid for held by somebody else isn’t yours until you take them into Court for it and win (so your “bought” movies held in somebody else’s system aren’t yours) so I never jumped into the Streaming bandwagon and instead kept my eyepatch handy and wooden leg polished, and when I got a TV some years ago - before the enshittification really took off - I very purposefully avoided “smart” ones like the plague.

    Frankly even if you’re not technically adept just get a Mini-PC and install LibreElec on it (which is purposefully made for non-Technical users to just to use Kodi) and get used to using Kodi. If you’re into paying for it you can even subscribe to perfectly legit IPTV subscriptions with hundreds of Live-TV channels and it definitelly integrates with the paid streaming services if you can’t do without and don’t want to sail the high seas.

    (I’m running Lubunto, a more generalistic lightweight Linux distro where I explicitly installed Kodi, rather than LibreElec, because I use it for more things than just watching stuff on my TV).

      • Aceticon@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        I’ve got one of these and since in my PC Kodi is running on top pretty much all of the time, it works as well as a dedicated remote on a dedicated media box.

        The upsides are that as I said it just works as one expects a remote and whilst it is wireless, it also has an infrared emitter and 5 programmable buttons for it, so I also use it to turn ON/OFF my TV and sound bar.

        The downsides are that the little keyboard on the reverse side is a bit awkward to use, especially if you need to type uppercase characters, special characters or numbers and the air mouse is a bit too finicky to use comfortably, both of which are extras beyond the normal remote functionality, so it’s no problem unless you expect to replace a keyboard + mouse or remote login once in a while for Linux maintenance tasks. Also this specific remote won’t, for who knows what reason (bug? stupid design decision?), work if the remote is slightly tilted, which is a bit of a downside of this model and, of course, it can’t actually turn your PC ON because it’s wireless with a USB dongle and the PC won’t read USB it’s not ON (though maybe it can work if one uses hibernate and keyboard wake-up, since the remote just looks like a Keyboard+Mouse device for the PC, but I haven’t tried it and since I just have that PC on all the time because it’s also a home server, I don’t really care)

        It’s my understanding that when you press a button in the remote these things just send down the pipe a key-press of a letter matching the function of the button (so for example the menu button is ‘m’) and those letters just so happen to be the Kodi shortcut keys for those functions (I reckon these things are standardized rather than “coincidence”).

        You can see in the recommendations on that page various other similar models. I reckon that as long as you avoid the “Voice command” stuff (which is tightly tied with Google Android) and go for a wireless remote which looks like it has a many buttons as a normal remote would, you’ll be fine. Keep in mind that traditional IR remotes won’t work for controlling something like a PC because the PC has no built-in IR receiver or software for support such a remote (normal IR remotes are pretty custom with different codes for different makers and even devices, rather than standardized as this one seems to be) hence the need to use a wireless one with a USB dongle (theoretically Bluetooth should also work).

    • KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      3 months ago

      Honestly even a chromecast with Google tv and something like Stremio launched on boot would give you similar results for relatively cheap. No techiness needed, just some fiddling with settings.

      • Aceticon@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        How sure are you that the Google software and hardware you’re recommending won’t be enshittified at some point, especially in light of Google’s behaviour in recent years?

        Because one of the core guidelines in this new setup of mine was exactly to avoid software/hardware stacks from profit-driven companies were the temptation to “make it nice now, enshittify for maximum $$$ once there’s a good installed base” is very much present, hence I went all the way to a fully open source solution with an as generic as possible mini-PC (the fully generic PC, a self-made desktop, would not have looked as good in my living room and use way more power, whilst the mini-PC looks like it belongs there and has a 15W TDP).

        I mean, my first try at changing my home media setup was actually getting an Android Media Box (which is much cheaper than a mini-PC), but the mini-PC plus Linux gives me total control over the entire software stack and a lot more than an Android Media Box does over the hardware stack (I can actually add more storage, expand the memory and even change the wireless support) without having to jump through the hoops of rooting an Android to get rid of all the crap (and not just he crap from Google - for example I didn’t want Netflix on the fancy starting menu of the Android box and yet if I uninstalled it, the pretty picture for it would still be there using space whilst not actually working) which is not exactly non-techie friendly and might not even be possible (I do believe it is possible for the Chromecast, though).

        Android is an inferior solution if you want to avoid enshittification and are not all that technically proeficient, though if you don’t care about being forced by the software on your own hardware into shit you don’t want (such as watching ads) it is the technically simplest option, but then again that scenario is just enduring the kind of abuse that the post is talking about, and my advice is not at all for people who are fine with ads and other “product promotions” (such as pre-installed software supporting services you have to pay for) shoved in front of them even in their own home and their own hardware.

        Whilst I didn’t go for the fully integrated Linux+Kodu solution which is LibreElec and instead went for a self-made Lubuntu + Kodi solution because I have lots of experience with Linux and wanted to do more with that device than just “media box”, my expectation is that a single-purpose packaged solution like LibreElec on top of a mini-PC together with the kind of remote I mentioned above is the simplest “just works” option: so accessible to non-techies and without enshittification or a risk of future enshittification.

        • frizop@lemmy.world
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          3 months ago

          it’s not, they started the enshitification process years ago, I threw mine away. In the fucking garbage if you can believe it because it started showing me ads.

        • KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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          3 months ago

          Huuuuuge price difference though.

          Though I guess the chromecast is being killed off so the difference doesn’t matter much anymore.

          • Zorsith@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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            3 months ago

            Fair. Added benefit tho; it’s not a Google product.

            Downside: it’s Nvidia and they’ve gone off the deep end into AI bullshit. Arguably went off the deep end several years ago into Crypto bullshit.

  • DJDarren@thelemmy.club
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    3 months ago

    My TV is a smart TV whose smart features I never, ever use because the first thing it does is switch to the input my Apple TV is on.

    Ironic really that the reason I chose an LG is because webOS seems less cunty than Android TV and whatever shit Samsung are offering. But I still never use it.

    • prince of space@lemm.ee
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      3 months ago

      I was pleasantly surprised that my Sony tv has a basic option so you can use it just as a screen. All smart stuff disabled.

    • Zorque@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      Can you install separate launchers on webOS? I installed a launcher on my Android TV and haven’t seen an ad since, even with smart features.

    • UnderpantsWeevil@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      webOS seems less cunty than Android TV

      Every time they do an update, things get worse. But my last TV had some dying pixels, so there’s no going back.