Same boat as you. The HOA maintains a pathway in a wetlands reserve right behind the residential area and it costs less than $20/mo.

They don’t really care what you do besides the following: no farm animals/chickens, no structural changes to the homes without a licensed contractor performing the construction, shoot an email to the HOA if you’re going to replace your roof or repaint your house to keep SOME level of uniformity.

Mostly they don’t care. Hell, the CC&R’s and HOA incorporation docs literally say they won’t directly enforce things against you and leave it up to the neighbors to take you to court with the HOA docs/agreements as free ammo. So if you explicitly want to be a menace to your neighbors/piss people off or want to have the only bright ass neon pink home with custom additions in the entire neighborhood - probably not the place for you. Otherwise they’ve had no effect on myself or my neighbors whatsoever and the wetlands/park is really nice.

Showerthoughts maybe?

Why would I recommend Fileflows? It was a little more user friendly in my experience without requiring pulling in configurations from other sources. I know there are repos chalk full of Tdarr settings and configs, but for simple setups and DIY I preferred the Fileflows interface. The end result is basically the same, so pick your poison.

Isn’t AMD’s HEVC/265 still decent, specifically? I feel like I read that somewhere years back. 264 has always been a weak spot for them, however.

Isn’t this almost the inverse argument to the android vs iPhone thing? Like the iPhone being (traditionally) more expensive for the “same technology from 5 years ago”? I don’t really have a horse in this race, I’m a firm believer in use what you like and is easiest/best for you. But I do feel compelled to call this one out a bit.

I might recommend fileflows over tdarr- but either way some kind of similar solution is almost mandatory with the grab bag of arbitrary encodings you find out there.

Software-wise, it seems that the relatively fast adoption of flatpaks and other containerized formats somewhat solves the typical dependency hell that was so common in Linux just a few years back (and to some extent still is an issue today depending on your distro and use case). The hardware support side is a little harder. That’s going to be up to vendors to play nice with the Kernel team and/or introduce reasonable userland software that doesn’t break the golden rule. Until Linux gets more market share the latter isn’t likely to happen. A nice side benefit of the emergence of immutable and/or atomic distros is that users can play around and try things with much lower risk of bricking their systems, so I’d also consider that a step closer in the “it just works” department.

Very true. But brute force checking through tons of different settings for each camera you need to configure is not fun. I couldn’t seem to find any kind of “known working configs” database or anything either. Every camera seems to be different in what it expects, outputs, authenticates, etc. Once it’s set up, I agree, maintaining the config is easier. Having all your cameras match in model and firmware version probably makes the whole endeavor MUCH easier.

AmCrest and Frigate together are SO good. Integrating Frigate with Home Assistant was also insanely easy for quick viewing and notifications. That initial Frigate config is a bit of a bear- but once you’re past that I cannot speak more highly of it.

hunter2

Alright, where’s my replacement once my current Fitbit dies? What company makes a watch that tracks steps, heart rate, sleep, spO2, notifications, is generally water resistant (light swimming) and has a battery that lasts ~5+ days? Bonus points for open firmware/hardware that doesn’t require me to design my own apps/systems for each of those items. I don’t even use most of what my Versa 3 can do, but I know it won’t last forever and I’d at least like an idea of where to go if/when it breaks down.

On windows the article mentioned being a microcode patch via Windows update. Linux would be similar- but via a kernel update most likely. I’d assume that a general BIOS update would also do the trick, but then you’re relying on motherboard vendors and it’s unlikely many would provide such an update to older hardware, even if it’s still widely used.

Difficult to exploit, already in the process of being patched. Truly, the most breaking of news.

I think they meant it as “once infected may be impossible to disinfect.” But it sure doesn’t read that way at first glance.

Here’s my vote for Bazzite. If your use case is simple computing and games? I don’t know if you can do much better.

Even with nvme drives which supposedly “don’t need” to use BFQ, I STILL always swap it since it maintains responsiveness across the system during heavy IO loads. I used to have similar full system freezes when downloading steam games which notoriously overload your IO in Linux. BFQ was the solution every single time.

Edit Try following the instructions detailed in this post to add a systemd rule to set the scheduler: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1009577/selecting-a-linux-i-o-scheduler

The second answer that shows an actual rules.d file example has always worked for me. If using nvme or old school spinning rust you’ll need to change it up a bit. Instead of “noop” set it to “BFQ”.

Try swapping to BFQ io scheduler and see if that makes a difference.

I’m going to assume it’s not Universal Blue… But parts of your description reminded me of it.

A gallon glass carboy is $20-25 and that’s going to be your biggest up front expense. That’s reusable, however so once you’ve got that you’re not going to need another for simple small batches. Champagne yeast is like $10-20 for 10-20 packs (figure a dollar per pack) and each pack can easily make 2 gallons if you’re smart enough to split it in half. 3lbs of raw honey from Costco will run $12-15 and a gallon of boiled water rounds out your list. Yeast nutrient is probably a good idea since it almost guarantees good results (1lb is like $10-15 and you only use 1/4 tsp or so per gallon batch). One-way air locks for brewing with stoppers are $2-10 depending on how many you buy (also reusable). So your first batch is your most expensive at $85 absolute worst case with today’s prices. From there on out subsequent batches cost only the honey, water, and any fruit or spices you want to try adding. As far as hobbies go, that’s not bad considering how much variety there is in it. I can’t comment on beer, but mead is dead simple as long as you keep everything sanitized before and after brewing.

As someone who makes meads/wines in a closet and has done so while renting, I don’t particularly see the relevance as long as your batches are small and contained… Typically, the tools and ingredients aren’t wildly expensive either if you’re keeping things simple (in the US, anyways). Honestly, I don’t see how more demographics don’t get into the basics of homebrewing. It’s dead simple to make something “passable” and with time and effort you can even make something good/great!